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Cat Reproduction

kittens
Breeding a cat should not be undertaken without a thorough understanding of what is involved. Many people get into cat breeding thinking it would be fun to have a litter of kittens to play with, that it will be nice for their children to experience the miracle of life, or that their cat should have a litter before being neutered.
 
The reality, however, is that anyone who allows their cat to have kittens, is bringing a group of kittens into the world who will soon need to find their own homes, and that in the meantime you will need to provide care of the queen during pregnancy, throughout delivery, and after delivery. Care of the mother and kittens, and finding good homes for the kittens, are time-consuming and can be very expensive, heartbreaking endeavors if anything doesn't go to plan.
 
Cats do not need to have a litter to be fulfilled. Spaying the female before her first heat cycle will eliminate the cycling, decrease her risk of mammary cancer as she ages, and eliminate the visiting males who come to prowl around the house while she is in season. Even if she is used for breeding, after she has her last litter, consider spaying to prevent a future pyometra, a devastating infection of the womb which causes serious illness and is expensive to treat.

Raising Kittens

If your cat does become pregnant, it is your responsibility to give the kittens the best start in life before finding them loving homes for life, and having their mother neutered.
 
If you suspect your cat could be pregnant, your first port of call should be your vet, who will be able to confirm pregnancy and advise whether continuing to carry the litter is possible without compromising your cat's health. Particularly for cats who become pregnant before they are 18 months of age and fully grown and developed, the carrying and birthing of a litter can prove very detrimental to their health and may result in her death.
 
Oestrus cycles begin when female cats reach puberty, which can be as early as 4 months right through to 10 months of age. Exactly when a cat starts coming on heat is determined by a number of factors including: the days becoming longer (ie Spring/ Summer), the cat’s weight, age, general health and their breed. Although, it should be noted that cats can come on heat and produce kittens at any time of the year if the situation is right.
 
The behaviours exhibited by a cat in oestrus can appear quite alarming to anyone that has not seen a cat on heat before and can be mistaken for an injury or illness such as a urinary tract infection, a broken back or a behavioural problem.  If you are unsure if your cat is in season, consult with your vet to ensure that they are not suffering from a medical condition.
 
Cats are known as a polyoestrus species. This means they can come on heat multiple times in a calendar year (compared to dogs that are dioestrous and only come on heat twice per year). Female cats will generally continue to come on heat until they are mated and become pregnant. Oestrus lasts for 7 to 10 days.
 
Signs of being in oestrus are mainly behavioural in domestic felines, and can include:
  • Increase in vocalisations, often described as a yowls which can be confused with an expression of pain or anxiety.
  • Increase in affection or aggression towards people and other cats alike.
  • Change in mannerisms, she may lower her front half and raise her bottom in the air when you stroke her back.
  • Increased attention to the genital region (licking).
  • Reduced appetite
  • Urine spraying on walls and other surfaces.
  • Increased insistence to go outside.
Some cats will have silent heats, where they do not show these behavioural changes. It is for this reason that cats should be kept indoors until they have been spayed or neutered.
 
Cat pregnancy normally lasts between 63 to 67 days, but it can be tough to know exactly how long a cat is pregnant for. The cat gestation period can vary from as short as 61 days to as long as 72 days, and will usually be between 63 and 67 days in length. Your cat often won't show any physical symptoms of pregnancy until she is a few weeks into her term.
 
After approximately 15-18 days of a cat pregnancy, you may notice that your pet’s nipples become enlarged and red – this is known as ‘pinking-up’. Your queen’s tummy will start to swell, but avoid touching it so you don't risk hurting mum or her unborn kittens. There can be other causes behind abdominal swelling, so monitor your cat closely for any signs of illness and consult your vet if you are worried. A mum-to-be will gradually gain between 1-2 kg (depending on the number of kittens she is carrying) - this is a strong sign that she is pregnant. Queens tend to have an increased appetite later in their pregnancy, which will also contribute towards her weight gain. An increased appetite could also be a sign of worms or illness, so double check with your vet to confirm. Your pregnant cat may act more maternal, meaning that she purrs more and seeks extra fuss and attention from you. Some vet practices can diagnose cat pregnancy using ultrasound, sometimes as early as 15 days into her term. The vet may also be able to give you an indication of how many kittens your cat is expecting by day 40 of her pregnancy.
 
If your cat refuses food, acts fidgety and looks for a secluded place to settle down, it could be because her labour is due to start very soon. Your cat’s body temperature will drop to around 37.8°C in the 12-24 hours before her labour starts. Right before giving birth, mum may become more vocal, appear agitated and want to wash herself constantly. Delivery should start with strong abdominal contractions, followed by some discharge from her vagina. If the discharge is heavy and black, or blood-coloured, then contact your vet. After this discharge, the kittens will likely follow very quickly. Most cat labours go smoothly and you shouldn’t have to interfere. There are some signs however, such as discoloured discharge and mum straining without producing kittens, which could suggest complications. If you notice either of these or have any other concerns, contact your vet immediately.
 
Newborn kittens should get all of their nutrition from their mother. This will continue until they gradually transition to solid foods when they are around four weeks old. The first milk produced is called colostrum and is rich in antibodies to help protect kittens against diseases. These antibodies last for six weeks or more. Kittens can only absorb colostrum during their first 16 to 24 hours of life and they should feed within two hours of birth. It is essential that kittens receive colostrum to protect them against disease. If any kittens do not receive the first milk, contact your vet.
 
Newborn kittens need to feed every two to three hours. Kittens suckling well from their queen will sleep between feeds and do not need additional nutrition until three to four weeks of age. Kittens not receiving adequate nutrition from the queen may cry and constantly seek the teats. Contact your vet if you think a kitten is not getting enough milk. Distressed newborn kittens may be restless, cry excessively, stay awake for long periods, leave their bedding, appear neglected by the queen or stop feeding and have a reduced sucking reflex. If the mother is relaxed, you can gently weigh the kittens at birth and then weigh them daily to ensure they are gaining around 10-15g each day, doubling their birth weight by two weeks of age. Kittens typically weigh between 90 and 110g at birth. If kittens are rejected by their mother for any reason, or if the queen is unable to feed her kittens, you may need to hand feed them.
 
Weaning can begin at three to four weeks of age but will take several weeks. Start with diluted specialised kitten milk replacement, such as Lactol or Royal Canin BabyCat Milk, in a shallow bowl. Always follow the product’s instructions very carefully to ensure the correct amount and dilution is used and at the correct temperature. Place a small amount on the mouth and gradually encourage the kitten to lap directly from the bowl. Offer several times a day. Following acceptance of the milk replacement, add a small amount of wet kitten food to the milk over time. Gradually increase the ratio of food to milk until the kitten is eating solid food. This whole process should happen gradually over three to four weeks while kittens also continue to suckle, until they are feeding freely. Monitor each kitten through this time to ensure they are each feeding effectively.
 
Once fully weaned, it is a good idea to allow the queen to gradually spend time apart from the kittens each day to help her milk to gradually dry up. However, the kittens will still be learning from her, so kittens should not be fully separated from the queen until at least eight weeks of age. It is best not to separate the kittens from the queen suddenly as her mammary glands may become engorged. A common reaction is to try to mother something else, such as a cuddly toy. Instead, gradually separate them over a period of several days.

Some behavioural issues may be seen when kittens are fully separated from their queen and litter mates too early – for example the retention of juvenile behaviours such as kneading or sucking may be seen in cats separated before eight weeks of age.
 
The queen can be neutered while she is still with or feeding the kittens as long as the surgical wound will not be affected by enlarged mammary glands. Fortunately the spay wound will normally be on her side. You do not need to wait until her milk has dried up, though it is usually best to wait until the kittens are no longer dependent on her and neuter her when the kittens are around eight weeks of age. The queen can get pregnant again as early as one to two weeks after giving birth, so it is advisable to get her neutered promptly.

Cat Neutering

Neutering is an operation to prevent female cats from getting pregnant (often called spaying) and male cats from making females pregnant (often called castration). The operation is performed by a vet, with the cat being under general anaesthetic. You'll likely be able to drop off and pick up your cat on the same day. They'll recover quickly from the operation, and your vet will advise on the best care following their surgery.
 
Cats can generally be neutered safely from 4 months of age, or once they weigh more than 1kg. Early neutering can prevent many behavioural issues such as spraying from taking hold, and prevention of such habits is much easier than trying to cure them. However, it is never to late to have your cat neutered for the health benefits provided by the surgery.
 
In males (toms) the testicles are removed – this is the main source of the hormone testosterone, so levels of this hormone fall after the surgery. The ovariohysterectomy technique (removal of both ovaries and uterus) is the most common practice used for cat spaying in UK. However individual practices have their own protocols in place, and both methods of cat spaying - ovariectomy (ovary removal only) and ovariohysterectomy are an accepted technique for spaying of female cats. Once spayed, your cat will no longer be able to fall pregnant, and will also not have any seasons.
 
Although all surgical procedures can be uncomfortable, recovery from neutering is usually very rapid. In the vast majority of cases cats are on their feet within a few hours of the procedure, and are also given pain-relief drugs for the procedure itself, and throughout recovery while necessary. Some cats may be subdued for a day or so following the procedure, and may appear drowsy or a little wobbly that evening, but most cats are back to their normal selves within a few days. Full recovery, including skin healing, is generally under ten days. Keeping the area clean, and making sure your cat cannot lick the area, will allow that natural healing process to take place as quickly as possible. Cats should be kept inside during recovery. It is likely that your cat will need to return to the vets 7-10 days following the surgery, for a post-operative check and to have stitches removed if your vet has not used dissolvable stitches.
 
Besides preventing unwanted pregnancies, neutering offers many other benefits. Spaying helps prevent uterine infections and breast cancer, which is fatal in about 90 percent of cats. Spaying your pet before her first heat offers the best protection from these diseases. Neutering of a male pet means that they will not suffer from testicular cancer in the future.
 
Neutering reduces the chance of catching feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV), an incurable disease similar to HIV in humans which is spread by saliva usually from bite wounds during fights. Unneutered cats that are confined can become frustrated and may try any escape route – including out of your top floor window. Neutering cats reduces their urge to roam and fight so they’re less likely to go missing, get hit by cars, or get hurt.
 
Female cats that aren’t spayed often come into season over and over again, which means they can be almost continuously in heat. This can be exhausting and usually attracts a queue of amorous and vocal male cats to the house. Unneutered male cats tend to urine-mark (spray) their territory, including your house, with a powerful and unpleasant scented urine.
 
There is no need to be worried that your cat will become overweight following neutering as although some neutered animals might have slightly lower food requirements, you just need to feed them a little less.
 
If you are struggling to afford neutering, which usually costs around £40 for males and £50 for females, consider using the £5 neutering scheme run by the Cats Protection League. This offer is open to owners who are receiving state benefits, are on a low income and who are students or pensioners and who live in Northern Ireland. Under the campaign you can get your pet cat neutered for £5 and microchipping is also available at some participating Veterinary Practices. The guidelines for eligibility for neutering assistance apply to one or more of the following; receipt of certain means-tested benefits, low household income, full-time students living away from home, state-only pension and pension credit. Proof of eligibility will be required by the vet in order to participate in the scheme. Under no circumstances should your cat be allowed outside before it has been neutered.