A Step-by-Step Guide to Grooming Your Curly Coated Dog
When grooming your dog, it is important to understand the coat type, to ensure you are using the correct tools and methods to achieve the desired result.
Curly coats are often referred to as 'poodle coats', due to the thick, tight waves of the hair. These coats are one of the most difficult to maintain as they matt incredibly easily, and require daily brushing for owners who want to maintain a longer coat.
This voluminous coat grows quite quickly, with continuous growth throughout the year, and will almost certainly require grooming by a professional at least every 8 weeks.
Curly coated dog breeds include the Poodle, Bichon Frise, Curly Coated Retriever, Bedlington Terrier, Irish Water Spaniel, Komondor and Portugese Water Dog. Often these dogs are ideal for owners who think they would like a Poodle crossbreed, as they offer a more predictable coat type and temperament.
Brushing Tools & Techniques
Curly coated dogs tend to need a large amount of attention to prevent tangling and to keep them looking their best, preferably daily brushing. Regular brushing will stop the coat from becoming matted and tangled, which is very uncomfortable for the dog. Some trimming of the face and feet may also be necessary on a regular basis. It is a good idea to plan a grooming schedule to keep on top of the needs of the curly. A full groom by a professional groomer is recommended every six to eight weeks, especially for those belonging to less experienced owners.
Step 1: Beginning at the bottom of a rear leg, identify a section of the leg to brush and use one hand to hold the overhanging longer hair away from this section while brushing with a Slicker Brush. Do not move onto a new section until you can easily glide a comb through the coat. Use a detangling, conditioning spray where matts have formed, and a Dematting comb to gently tease the tangles without hurting the dog. Work your way up the leg to the top of the hind quarters, then repeat on the other side and on the tail.
Step 2: Move on to the front legs and repeat the same process, taking care to remove any tangles in the feathering of the legs. Lift the front leg and brush in the underarm area and along the underbelly.
Step 3: Spray the chest area with a detangling spray before brushing with a slicker brush. Depending on the density of the coat, it may be necessary to use the same line combing techniques used for the legs to reach the undercoat and remove all tangles and loose hair.
Step 4: When grooming the facial area and behind the ears, spray the detangling spray onto your hands before rubbing onto the dog's hair, to avoid spraying so close to the sensitive eyes and ears. Pay particular attention to remove any tangling around the ears using the Dematting comb.
Step 5: Complete grooming by brushing outstanding areas with the slicker brush and undercoat rake to remove any remaining loose coat.
Step 6: Use safety scissors to remove any stray hairs which are around the dog's eyes. Always cut with the scissors pointing downwards, away from the eye, and with extreme care.
Bath Time!
Curly coated dogs tend to need regular washing, usually every 4-8 weeks, as their coats are prone to holding smells and debris which can make the coat appear dull.
Conditioner should be applied after bathing to help moisturise the skin and hair, and protect against tangles.
Human shampoos should never be used on dogs, as dogs and humans have very different pH balances in the thin layer called the acid mantle, which protects the skin. Human skin has a normal pH balance of 5.5-5.6, which is on the acidic side. Dogs, on the other hand, have a normal pH balance of 6.2-7.4, which is more neutral. Using a human shampoo on dogs disrupts the acid mantle, leaving your dog vulnerable to parasites, viruses, and bacteria. It also makes his skin feel dry and flaky, which can lead to repeated scratching and abrasions. This makes it easy for bacteria to invade. Dog’s skin is also more sensitive than ours; we have 10-15 layers of skin cells, canines have only 3-5. Shampoo with the wrong pH balance and/or harsh chemicals can irritate a dog’s skin and strip away the protective oils from his coat and skin.
Step 1: Collect all the items you will need for the bath, including a jug to dilute the shampoo if required, your chosen shampoo and conditioner, a bathing tool such as a Kong Zoom Groom to help massage the shampoo to the skin, and a helper to hold your dog if necessary.
Step 2: Place your dog in the bath or shower on a non-slip mat. Ensure the water temperature is suitable, not too hot nor too cold, and thoroughly wet the dog all over. Massage shampoo into the coat, ensuring that it is reaching the skin and that you do not miss any areas. Take care around the eyes and ears to ensure that shampoo and soapy water do not get into these sensitive areas. Rinse the coat thoroughly until you can hear a 'squeak' from the coat when you hold it between your fingers - squeaky clean! Repeat for conditioner.
Step 3: Towel dry your dog as much as possible while they stand in the shower or bath. They will almost certainly shake as soon as you let them loose. If your dog will tolerate it, you can finish drying with a hair dryer, taking care to avoid burns or discomfort from the heat of the hair dryer. Use a Pin Brush to disrupt the coat throughout the drying process, to help spread the natural oils and speed up drying.
Eyes, Ears & Teeth
Eyes: Check the eyes and clean any gunk which has accumulated. This should be done on a regular basis to stop deposits becoming hardened and more difficult to remove. Use lightly dampened cotton wool or Petkin Eye Wipes for mild cases. If there are excessive deposits around your pet's eyes, you will need to contact a vet as this could signify infection. If your dog suffers from tear staining, use a Tear Stain Remover on a regular basis as these need to be broken down over time.
Ears: Cleaning the ears is an essential part of a grooming routine, and is best done outside before a bath as when your dog shakes after ear cleaning, the debris has to go somewhere! Before cleaning the ears, inspect them. If your dog has a lot of hair coming from the ear canal, it may need to be plucked. Talk to your groomer or vet's office about how to properly pluck the ears without hurting your dog. Squirt a few drops of ear cleaner into the ear and gently massage the base of the ear as the cleaner dissolves wax and loosens dirt. Allow your dog to shake and gently wipe down the ear with a suitable wipe. Most dogs are not keen on this process, so be sure to reward with a delicious treat.
Dental: Choose a suitable toothbrush and toothpaste (one designed for dogs!) for your pet. Most toothpastes are designed to be used on a daily basis. If your pet will not tolerate tooth brushing, implement other strategies to control their dental health and hygiene such as using a Dental Rinse which can be added to their water bowl.
Nail Maintenance
Unless your dog spends a lot of time exercising on hard surfaces, it is likely that they will need their nails trimmed on a regular basis.
Few dogs enjoy this, so it is unlikely to be your favourite shared activity, but regular handling of the feet, weekly nail trims and lots of rewards will help to make the process easier and less daunting to both you and your pet.
Ensure that you hold your dog's paw gently yet firmly to prevent slipping, and always use clippers such as Ancol Nail Clippers which have a guard to help prevent serious accidents.
It is common to cause a small bleed when clipping nails, especially with darker nails, so keep some first aid gear on hand to stem any bleeding and reduce the trauma to both yourself and your dog.
If your dog is likely to resist nail trimming, enlist the help of another calm person to help with holding the dog as still as possible.